Mount Rainier from the lower crossing trail of the Carbon River
Mount Rainier has some of the most beautiful scenery, and I found a great way to enjoy it. On June 28, my hiking buddy, Deb, and I drove to the Carbon River entrance to Mount Rainier National Park. We stopped at the Ranger Station that is just two miles from the entrance and got a free wilderness camping permit, since we would be camping within the park boundary. We walked the now closed road to Ipsut Creek campground. It is a lovely walk through old growth forest, complete with mammoth old-growth trees, hanging moss, creeks and chirping birds.
Hiking the Carbon River road/trail to Ipsut Creek through old-growth florest
Hanging moss in the Carbon River rainforest
It took us about an hour and a half to get to the campground, where we almost had the place to ourselves. We chose a site near the river and quickly had our tents up. It was perfect because each site had a picnic table.
Ipsut Creek campground
We packed a lunch and headed up the Wonderland Trail. We stopped to view Ipsut Falls, which is just 200 feet off the trail. It is beautiful as it cascades down the steep rocks.
Ipsut Creek falls
We then continued up the trail. Within forty minutes we were to the lower crossing of the Carbon river. I was pleased to see that the Park Service ranger had installed new log bridges so that we could cross the river.
Deb crosses the first of two new log bridges over the Carbon River at the lower crossing.
The second bridge at the lower crossing. The handrail was a welcome addition as the water was raging below.
As I crossed the log, I found it important to look ahead, not down at the rushing water below, since it would be easy to become dizzy. We did not want anything like that to happen! The view of the mountain from the middle of the river crossing was amazing!
Mount Rainier seemed so close!
On the other side, we headed upriver and soon arrived at the suspension bridge over the river. What fun to walk on the bridge and view the mountain.
Suspension bridge over the Carbon River. It was bouncy!
We met Jack, the one of the National Park Rangers, and he talked to us about the suspension bridge and how it was designed. Basically, there was NO design! Ha! The guy who built it was an engineer, and somehow knew how big of cables to use and how to rig them. The bridge components were brought in by helicopter and assembled on site. From there, we continued up the trail to take in a view of the Carbon Glacier. We perched alongside the trail on large boulders and watched as rocks cascaded down the face of the ice.
The snout of the Carbon glacier. Rocks continually tumble down the face of the ice.
We returned to camp for dinner and watch the river as the sun set behind the mountain. In the morning, we packed up camp and headed back down the road. On the way, we took a side trip to see Chenuis falls. On the way across the river, we could see Mount Rainier. The falls reminded me of the water-slide falls that I saw last year in the Sierras.
Mount Rainier peeks above the ridge from the crossing to Chenuis falls.
Chenuis falls. The water the crystal clear.
We continued on down the road/trail, and then hid our packs in the woods and hiked up the trail to Green lake. On the way up we stopped to view Ranger Falls.
Viewpoint for Ranger Falls
It was a steep climb up, and I could feel the burn in my leg muscles by the time I reached the lake. I think Deb had her fill of climbing. She said, "I'm not a hill person!" Green Lake was beautiful in the morning light. There were fish jumping in the middle of the lake.
Log bridge over the outlet stream from Green Lake
Green Lake was peaceful in the morning light. Fish jumped in the middle of the lake.
We headed back down and stopped next at the Old Mine. It was just a quarter mile off the road. Unfortunately, there was another climb up to the mine, so Deb let me do the hiking. The mine is carved into the face of a cliff. There was a small stream running out of it and there were old railroad tracks leading into the blackness. The mine is cordoned off about ten feet in.
Old Mine, only a quarter mile off the road. A stream flowed out of the darkness
View from inside the old mine
Sign at the start of the trail to the old mine. I wonder what they were mining?
We made it back to the trailhead before noon. I highly recommend this overnight trip. But, be sure to do it when the weather is good. I can't imagine going and not being able to see Mount Rainier in all her glory. Here is a map showing trails in the area.
I think this was one of the best overnight hikes I have ever taken. There is minimal elevation gain going into camp, and the trail up to the Carbon Glacier has a very moderate elevation gain, so it is easy to hike.
The Carbon River - on my way to Ipsut Creek campground
The Washington Trail Association sponsors "volunteer vacations" on which people like me can volunteer time and effort to improve the hiking trails in Washington State. I decided to join a trail work crew that was going to improve the Wonderland Trail in Mt. Rainier National Park. The volunteer vacation is a week-long adventure, camping in a wilderness location and making friends with people who are like-minded.
Each day of this trip, I tried to document what it was like, what I saw, what we did as a team. Hopefully you can see fun it can be to be in some of the most beautiful places on earth, and how rewarding it is to improve the experience for others as well.
Overview map showing where we camped and the nearby trails
Sat June 4, 2016
Ipsut creek flows into the Carbon River, which is fed by the
Carbon glacier on Mt. Rainier. I was lucky in that I live less than an hours
drive from the meeting place at the Carbon River entrance to Mt. Rainier
National Park. There were a lot of people parked along the road when I arrived, but
fortunately I saw a young lady standing by her car which had a Washington Trail
Association (WTA) sticker on it. She said that we would be meeting at the Rainier National Park service utility building just up the road. So I returned to my truck, drove through the gate and parked at our meeting
place.
The Mt. Rainier National Park (RNP) ranger, Zack, had everyone fill out waiver forms, which I
did while finishing my lunch. Our WTA leader, Austin, arrived and gave us
permission to start hiking to the Ipsut Creek campground, which was five miles
away. Everyone left their packs since the RNP ranger would shuttle them to
the campsite for us! Sweet!
Old growth forest
The hike was through old growth forest and it was amazing to
look at those monster trees towering above me. The "trail" was
actually a continuation of the Carbon River road, but was closed due to
washouts. The afternoon was really warm, probably in the low eighties. I
regretted not bring my water bottle, which was in my pack. Regardless, I
arrived at camp no worse for wear, and began helping unloading gear and
supplies from the shuttle.
I got to help set up the cook tent and assembled the cook stove.
I felt so much more confident having been on a prior work party a month
ago.
Our cooking area and cooking tent. Kevin is sitting at the table. Jen is setting up inside the cook tent.
I found a nearby camping spot and set up my tent.
My campsite nestled in the trees
Everyone helped with fixing dinner, which was spaghetti and
meatballs, fresh green salad and garlic bread. We all introduced ourselves. I
think this is going to be a great group to work with. The sun hasn't set yet,
but everyone is tired and we all headed to our tents to rest.
Sun June 5
I was up by 5:30 and prepared my pack with the items I
would be taking with me today. I carried two and a half liters of water since
it is supposed to be in the eighties today.
We had pancakes, scrambled eggs and bacon for breakfast.
Everyone also packed a lunch. We met Zack, the NPS ranger, at eight and had
a good discussion on the safe use of tools.
We hiked up the trail for only five minutes before starting our
first task. A small stream had washed out the trail and old bridge. We improved
the trail down to the stream and put in large boulders so hikers could rock-hop
across.
We improved the trail down to the stream bed
We also improved the trail up the bank on the far side.
Moving rocks to use as stepping stones across the stream. Also improving the trail up the other side.
By ten, we took a break. I walked up to Ipsut Creek Falls, which
were awesome!
We joined the Wonderland Trail and my next job was to repair the
trail tread in an area where a huge tree had fallen and a rock slide had
destroyed the trail. I had to gather load after load of rocks and build up the
trail where a small stream made the trail muddy.
We stopped for lunch as the day grew hotter and hotter. As I was
finishing, several groups of day hikers passed by and thanked us for our work.
That made my day!
Taking our lunch break.
By mid afternoon we cashed our tools and took a look at our
project for tomorrow. There is an enormous washout caused by the Carbon
River.
Back at camp I took a sit bath and washed my work shirt. I put
it back on while it was still damp, which felt great in the afternoon
heat.
Dinner was couscous with chicken and vegetables. We also had a
slice of cantaloupe. It's only 7:30, but everyone is tired and headed for
their tents to rest.
Mon June 6
I was up by 5:30 and enjoyed hot chocolate and coffee
before breakfast. As early as I get up, there is always hot water and coffee
ready. I helped fix French toast and bacon. I cooked the leftover egg mixture,
so technically we had eggs too.
We did stretching exercises before heading up the trail. Our
task today was to build a trail through a washed out area.
We had to build a trail down into the washed out area. This is what it looked like before our work.
I took a
"before" and "after" picture. We had to build a ramp from
the existing trail down into the washed out area. That meant moving extremely
large rocks down the unstable bank. One of the team members, Kevin, was using a
peavey to leverage a large boulder. The hook slipped from the rock, and he was
thrown off balance. He rock-hopped down the bank as best as he could, but fell
down at the bottom, jamming his leg and skinning his knee. By noon he was in
pain, and Austin had him and two others go back to camp. He may have to go home
if he can't continue to work. What a bummer!
We spent the rest of the afternoon moving rocks to make a good
trail through the washout. Jack and another fellow from the Rainier National
Park service were also working to clear fallen trees from the trail.
What the trail looked like after we moved the boulders and graded the trail.
It was another beautiful and warm day, but somewhat cooler than
yesterday. Back at camp, I did my usual wash up and lazed around until it was time to make
dinner. I helped prepare and cook salmon. It was delicious along with pan-fried broccoli with fresh garlic and basil pasta.
Tomorrow we will likely clear more trail through the
washout. It also might be the last sunny day of this trip.
Tuesday June 7
I fell asleep quickly last night, but woke up just as it was getting dark. I thought it was already morning! I felt foolish when I finally looked at the time and then nestled back into my warm sleeping bag.
We had egg and sausage muffins for breakfast and did stretching
exercises before heading up the trail.
We repaired the approaches to several foot bridges. Our next
task was to try to widen the trail along some protruding rocks. The problem was
that the river had washed away next to the rocks and it was a thirty foot drop
into the snarling water below!
There's not much trail left below the rock outcropping. We widened the approach trail and started working on the rocks.
We used a pick and pry bar to break away the
rock. Hoes and shovels were used to widen the trail. The trail here is not in
perfect form, but it is much better and safer.
We picked away at the rocks and made a small ledge. It still needed more work.
By mid-afternoon we moved up the trail to a point where a
rock slide covered it. We had to move rocks and make a path through.
The rock slide across the trail. We needed to widen the tread and move lots of rocks.
We finished half of the work before quitting for the day and heading back to camp.
Kevin felt better, but was heading home. He caught a ride with
Jack, the NPS ranger. We all said our "goodbyes". Everyone was so sad to see him go and hoped that he would recover quickly.
Dinner tonight was steak, mashed potatoes and pan-roasted
asparagus. I prepared and cooked the steak. The entire meal was wonderful!
The weather forecast is for a chance of rain for the next
several days. We put up the rain fly on the cook tent and rigged a tarp over
the eating area.
We rigged a rain tarp over the eating area and put the rain tarp over the cook tent.
All in all it was a great day.
Wednesday June 8
On a Volunteer Vacation, Wednesday is our day off from trail
work.
I decided to hike up to Mowich Lake, which is about five and a
half miles away. The difficulty, however, was an elevation gain of 2700 feet in
three and a half miles to reach Ipsut Pass.
I left camp at six. The trail follows Ipsut Creek and is up, up
and more up. It took me two hours to get to the top. It was so steep in places
that I could only do one switchback before having to pause to catch my breath
and rest my legs.
View to the north from Ipsut Pass
From Ipsut Pass it was a gentle downhill to Mowich lake. There were
still patches of snow around the lake, and only one tent in the campground
since the road to the lake is still closed.
Mowich Lake. It is ice-free, but there were still snow banks in shady areas around the lake.
I saw two deer as I ate my lunch at
one of the picnic tables.
Deer crossing a small pool in the stream flowing from Mowich Lake
I was fortunate in that the weather was mostly sunny. There were
also pretty flowers growing along the trail.
Blooming flowers along the trail from Mowich Lake to Ipsut Pass
I got back to camp at 11, and quickly washed up. The sky was
filling with clouds and a cool wind was beginning to blow. After doing a
few camp chores, I snuggled in my sleeping bag for a short nap.
One of our crew, Steve, had not returned by five, so Austin and
Ed rode bikes down the road to find him. Fortunately he was already on his way
back and everyone was accounted for from the days' activities.
For dinner we had pulled pork sandwiches, fresh green salad, and
pan fried broccoli. It was wonderful!
Thursday June 9
I awoke to cloudy skies, but no rain! Yay!
We had breakfast burritos, a tortilla with eggs, sausage and
cheese. We hit the trail just before 8, and had a two mile hike to our
worksite. We had to finish clearing the rock slide from the trail and make the
trail tread wider.
We then headed another half mile up the trail where there had
been an enormous rock slide caused by erosion from the Carbon River. The rocks
looked like they could slide again, and appeared to be an accident waiting to
happen. We carefully walked by them and headed into the river rock scree. We
crossed a branch of the Carbon River on small logs. Jack, the RNP ranger,
joined us and showed us where he planned to put in a more robust log bridge.
Our task was to clear a trail through the jumble of boulders.
We moved boulders to create a trail across the rock scree in the flood plain of the Carbon River.
As if on cue, it began to rain. I donned my rain gear as I began
to move rocks. Some of the boulders were enormous, so we had to use a pry bar
and muscle power to maneuver them out of the trail. Every so often we stacked a
cairn to mark the way. It took all afternoon to clear a path to the next branch
of the river.
There was now steady rain as we headed back to camp. My shirt
and pants were damp, even though I was wearing rain gear. I changed into a dry
shirt and put on my down jacket under my raincoat. I really wished I had
another polyester and nylon shirt to change into.
We all gathered inside of the cook tent, which was warmer due to
the cook stove. I was rather depressed about the rain, and still felt chilly
due to my damp pants. However, after snacking on chips and salsa, my spirits
lifted and eventually everyone worked together to make dinner. By bedtime the
rain had let up somewhat, and I snuggled into my warm sleeping bag with a
smile.
Friday June 10
The last day of work. The week has gone so quickly!
It rained most of the night, but for some reason I had a restful
sleep. Perhaps it was a combination of the river and the rain.
For breakfast, we had scrambled eggs and English muffins with
melted cheese. We did a few stretching exercises, led by Stephen. He does a
great job explaining which muscles are being affected, and he is very
enthusiastic.
The group split into three teams. Jen, Stephen and Steve worked
on cleaning the water bars on the Ipsut Pass trail. Austin and Hannah worked on
the Wonderland Trail, trying to create a safer tread where the river had washed
away the trail leaving a thirty foot drop into the roaring torrent. Ed and I
hiked back up to the rock slide and improved the slope of the trail.
It took Ed and I a couple of hours to drag more rock and gravel.
It looks much better now.
We then walked back down the trail, doing some brushing as we
went.
We helped Austin and Hannah break away rocks, making a pathway
in the rock wall above the river. Although it is still dangerous, it is much
safer than before.
Still widening the trail near the protruding rock.
I put together a short video showing how we blasted away at the rocks trying to make a decent trail that was safer:
Back at camp, I was able to air out my sleeping bag in the sun
for about 15 minutes before the clouds gathered again.
It began raining an hour before dinner, and even hailed for a
while! I'm so glad we have a covered eating area.
For dinner, everyone helped to make chili with onions, olives,
cheese, sour cream, avocado, and quesadillas with cheese. On the side we had a
green salad with tomatoes, avocado, celery and carrots.
We consolidated the food in the cook tent and did some
pre-cleaning and packing for our trip back to our cars tomorrow.
This has been an awesome experience! I just love working and
camping in the forest, helping to make the trail experience better for
everyone.
I was right when I said several days ago that this was a great
group of people to work with.
I had a blast!
Epilogue:
Austin gave the group several riddles to solve. We spent a lot
of time talking about them and finally solved them.
Riddle #1:
A man wanted to catch the bus, and to do so, had to leave in
exactly 45 minutes. The man didn't have a clock or watch. However,
he did have two ropes of equal length. He knew that if he lit the end of either
rope, it would burn to the other end in exactly one hour. The ropes, when
burning, burned at varying rates. How did he manage to leave in exactly 45
minutes?
Riddle #2:
There are four people who need to cross a dangerous bridge at night.
They only have one flashlight which must be used to cross the bridge. One of
the four is very experienced, and can cross the bridge in 1 minute. The second
is less experienced, and can cross the bridge in 2 minutes. The third can cross
the bridge in 5 minutes and the fourth takes 10 minutes. They can only cross
the bridge two at a time, always carrying the flashlight. When the pair
crosses, they move at the rate of the slowest person. When across, someone must come back across with the flashlight. Explain how the entire group can get
across the bridge in 17 minutes.
